Lined Stretch Tabi Tutorial

Recently, Linda Cole (Saiya-chan) of Oranda no Kitsuke created a very nice pattern for making your own stretch tabi. You can download the pattern here. The pattern is for making size 25-25.5cm stretch tabi, however it is easy to make size adjustments by adjusting your print margins.

To make your own pair of stretch tabi using Saiya-chan's pattern, simply cut out your stretchy fabric (reverse the pattern for the other foot) and sew the pieces together (inside out) matching up the letters on the pattern pieces. I used a zigzag stitch on my sewing machine, but you can also sew the tabi by hand.

Unlined tabi, made using Saiya-chan's pattern:

Now, if you would like to make stretch tabi that are lined, it takes a few extra steps. The lining gives some extra thickness and stability, especially if the fabric you use is very thin. Here is my tutorial on making lined stretch tabi using Saiya-chan's tabi pattern:

Step 1, Cut out your fabric.
Reverse the pattern for the other foot.

For the outside layer I am using very satiny fabric that is a mix of nylon and polyester. For the lining I used an old jersey cotton T-shirt.

 The tabi soles are also jersey cotton, but I used 3 layers of fabric to give the soles cushioning thickness.

Step 2, baste the soles together.
Pin the three layers of fabric for the sole together so that they do not separate. Stitch around the outside of the sole to bond the layers together. You can use whatever sort of stitch you prefer for this, such as hand basting, machine basting stitch. I used a zigzag stitch around the very edge of the fabric.

Step 3, Sew together the center seam of the top of the tabi (point B on the pattern)

Pin the left and right halves of the tabi and tabi lining together and sew them together. Again, I used a zigzag stitch.


Step 4, Sew the heels (point C on the pattern)
Sorry, I don't have a picture for this step. With right sides together still, sew up the back of the heel of each of the tabi and lining pieces.


Step 5, Attach the lining to the tabi body.
Turn the tabi body right-side out and carefully insert the lining into the tabi body. Line up the toes and pin around the edges. Baste around the edge to bond the tabi and lining pieces. I basted by hand this time.

Step 6, Attach the sole.
Pin the sole to the body of the tabi, starting from the heel. Use plenty of pins around the toes. The toes are wider on the body piece than the sole, however everything should line up if you focus on keeping the edges even. Again, I used a zigzag stitch.

Step 7, Sew the ankle opening (point A on the pattern).
To cut down on bulk around the ankle, I trimmed the lining a little bit.

Fold the top of the ankle twice and pin it down.

You can sew it however you wish. I used a zigzag stitch again for this. It can be seen on the outside of the tabi, however a zigzag stitch is less likely to break when the tabi is stretched while inserting your foot. You may add a piece of elastic in the ankle opening if you want, but I don't see the need for it.

Done! Turn the tabi right-side out, and you are finished!

The color on these photos didn't turn out right. The tabi are gold colored and shiny.

This is the true color:

You can have fun using different types of stretchy fabric and old clothing!

So You Want to Make a Kimono?

Hello, reader. If you're interested in kimono or yukata - maybe for cosplay, maybe for a summer festival, or maybe even for just slobbing around the house - you're in the right place.  This (monstrous) tutorial covers everything from purchasing cloth to finishing a girl's or woman's unlined kimono or yukata.

Photo from Wikipedia

When I first started to become interested in kimono, it was a little intimidating because all of the kimono for sale seemed to be for girls much smaller than I am. For reference, I'm about 5 foot 9.5 inches, or 176 cm, tall in my bare feet, slouching. I'm losing weight (slowly) but right now I also wear an American size 14 to 16 in women's sizing. I am not a small girl, so having a hobby that is geared towards tiny Japanese girls is difficult.

I got so frustrated with wanting to wear pretty kimono but not being able to find any in the right size that I started researching their construction. Most of the commercially-available patterns like Simplicity's costumes are nowhere near accurate. (The one exception might be Folkwear's kimono pattern, but I haven't tried it myself). My method, while not perfectly traditional and exactly "right," is good enough that I've stood in front of professional dressers and not had them notice that my kimono isn't "authentic."